Sunday, February 1, 2009

San Francisco - Day 2 - The City

11th of December 2008

Well, our plan was to drop off our rental car at the airport and then take the BART (not Simpson, but the Bay Area Rapid Transit i.e. Metro/Tube/Train whatever) into town. As we had to refill with gas before we dropped the car off it was a race against time. I was fiddling with the GPS trying to locate the closest gas station to the airport and Sha was doing the driving action. The car was due at 10:45am and we delivered it at 10:58. Bum, by being 13 minutes late, it cost us a $37.50US penalty fee. Damn!

After our little loss we headed for the BART station at the airport. We got off the little train that services the airport and noticed everyone mobbing the vending machine to purchase tickets. Of course as you walk down to get your tickets from the machine, everyone goes to the first four terminals they see, leading to huge queues. If you walk, literally, 10 metres to the other side, there are another four terminals with no lines :-) Nothing like using your noggin to speed up your journey!

We took BART to the waterfront edge of San Fran, known as the Embarcadero. Once we had disembarked, we saw a rather large union protest with a giant inflatable rat and everyone dressed in orange. Seemed to be builders/labourers protesting at lack of pay rises and complaining about the foreman coming to work and showing off his Harley Davidson, while at the same time saying no money for increases/Christmas bonuses. Very interesting to see this all go on. We checked out a few market stalls and found a couple more Christmas gifts.

Waterfront View



San Fran isn't as heavily built up as some other US cities and is quite spread out. It reminds me of a SUPER MEGA GIANT version of Wellington (hope I captured simply how much bigger it is than Wellington there!).

San Fran skyline

Looking back from the Embarcadero

After the market we headed for the Ferry building on the waterfront. This building has been converted into a huge foodies heaven (sorry, I seem to talk about food a bit too much don't I?). We had a wander round at all the amazing and pricey comestibles, had a glass of wine at a wine bar, saw many mushrooms at a mushroomery (is that a word?), had some delicious gelato - Sha tried egg-nog and guava and I had berry cabernet and melon (or was it lemon, oh dear, hard to remember...that'll learn me for blogging so long after the fact). The guava flavour was hands down the winner, although the berry cabernet was also very flavoursome and very unique.

Mushrooms!

The whole shop was dedicated to fungi

Inside the ferry building


After the ferry building, we settled on Mexican for lunch and went for rather large Burritos from a greasy Mexican place. Ordering was a little tricky when you don't speak Spanish and are asked the equivalent of 'what would you like with/on that'. Barry had told us to go for somewhere that didn't look too clean as this is where the best food comes from. Once we sat down, we found a little wasp sharing our table, so I soaked a little bit of napkin in beer and let him eat it. He seemed to really enjoy it - I guess it was the sugar in the beer (either that, or was already drunk).
The manager of the place was dressed in a grimy white singlet and kept shooing birds out the door, much to the amusement of the customers (despite the less than stellar food, it was a very popular place). While we were sitting, we were asked by a waitress where we came from and we said 'New Zealand' and showed her our purse stamped with New Zealand and a couple of kiwis to which she said 'ahhh Nouvelle Zeeland' and we nodded. Overall, We were a little disappointed by the food and later, after recalling our meal to Barry, were told that she would take us to a REAL Mexican diner in the Mission district which has far better food.

Mister wasp drinking some beer

He loved that napkin!

After lunch we continued our walk through the streets of San Fran and headed up through the streets on the 'long march' back to Barry's via China town and then to a Best Buy.

More San Fran skyline

The start of the long march

China town was very cool - lots of souvenir stores selling postcards and the 'same old' stuff (as per Los Angeles) but there were also more unique stores such as the three story Chinese version of the $2 shop called China Bazaar (although some things were more than $2). The basement floor had fountains, statues and the like and it was all very cheap. Walking around China town, we were struck by the number of statues everywhere. There were the three monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil), horses, children reading books, monkeys, skateboarding kids - a really odd mix. They do liven up the streets and it makes me yearn for more 'odd' and unusual art works in Wellington as it really adds character to the streets.

China Bazaar in China town


More China town


Reading is good for you!


Statues everywhere

A little bit kooky and overwhelming

China town gates

Of course, we started at the wrong end!

Smell no evil?

Very popular statues - everyone was getting pictures taken with them

Cable Car


No, we did not ride (or drive them Marty)

A shop of stars - Part I

Who do you recognise?

A shop of stars - Part II

Not sure what the story was with this shop. I think all it sold were pictures of musicians. Would have been interesting to take a look inside, but we had to keep moving!

A church

I thought it looked pretty cool

Night approaches (skyline view from Best Buy)

Hmmm, I look a little portly :-(

After China town, we continued to head for Barry's but I wanted to check out Best Buy as I had been looking for a particular brand of fold out keyboard for my cellphone for quite some time. Inside, it was essentially a giant department store, but dedicated to computers and electrical goods. Alas, they couldn't help me find what I was looking at and I knew I might as well fall back to plan b, which was find it on the internet (and likely for cheaper too). Oh well. Best Buy did leave me wondering what an Apple store would be like...maybe I will check one out when I get to London.

All up it took us about 4 hours of walking from the Embarcadero to Barry's and we found that it was a great way to get a feel for the city (well, at least part of it!) Our feet were a little tired though - it seems to happen when walking through cities, but somehow when in nature we feel less tired. Weird!

Once we returned to Barry's, she took us out to a bar which really had a focus on beer. Barry is an IPA connoisseur and we were guided by her recommendations as to what was worth it and what wasn’t. The place reminded me a little of the Bodega in Wellington, but a little smaller and with more of a beer focus. I’m sure there were around 20-30+ beers on tap and maybe double that available bottled (Barry, please correct me if I’m wrong!)

After a couple of IPAs, we headed next door to a sausage store where they cooked gourmet sausages. We ordered and then took them back to the bar. Yumo!

Another thing of note was this bar had the most amount of graffiti in a bathroom I had EVER seen - literally the walls were covered from head to toe. With that much graffiti it transcended ugly and became art. After this bar it was time to head to Barry’s ‘local’ which was an unassuming Irish bar called Finnegans Wake. While the web page isn't much to look at (I guess they focus on drinking not websites!) I do wonder what is going on with that picture of a book? We had been warned that Finnegans Wake was a place for serious drinkers and not to bother order cocktails – beer (or hard liquor) was the order of the day. Although having said that, Sha did order a hot toddy. Hmmm. It was here that I spotted the mirror in the bathroom which had an Air New Zealand advert which was very unexpected! Strange how these things happen. After a couple more beers and shooting the breeze with Chile the bartender, we headed home. I really don't think Barry should have been calling me a lightweight though. I’m not, I swear :-)

Air New Zealand advert

Kind of clever, isn't it?

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

San Francisco - Day 1 - Sonoma

Wednesday 10th of December
Our first full day in San Francisco. We still had our rental car and decided to make use of it until we had to return it on Thursday.

After guidance from Barry, we headed North to Sonoma, which is serious wine country. To get there, we headed over the Golden Gate bridge again, this time in daylight. A magnificent experience and driving over it you get a true appreciation of how big it actually is. From the bridge you get a good view of Alcatraz as well (nope, we never made it to Alcatraz...maybe next visit).

Approaching the Golden Gate Bridge


Going over the bridge...it's really quite big!


Alcatraz...try and get off that rock

I guess you could swim it...maybe

Once we got to the Sonoma area, we headed for the visitors centre and picked up a map showing wineries. Apparently there are 300-400 wineries in the region, with around a third of these doing tastings. We decided to head straight for the town of Sonoma and take a look around and then head out to try vino.

At the visitors centre, Sha seems to have shrunk


Sonoma country side vineyard


Sonoma town square

A lovely little town square with a little park

Sonoma is quite small population wise - there's about 10,000 people all up. It's a lovely place and very foodie/wine orientated.

We took a good look around the shops and it was here I found the slinky for Ness - the store was called Tiddle E. Winks. Actually, we liked it so much here that we ended up spending far too long in the shops and simply enjoyed walking around and getting the 'feel' of the town. This meant we didn't make it to any wineries nor did we manage to do a wine tasting in town. Oh well, what we did instead was worth it.

After checking out the shops, we went to a deli and picked up a whole lot of yummy treats. I have to say that the gourmet food that you can get in the States is amazing and it is a shame that so many Americans go for the junk food rather than the good stuff. I guess the higher price is one reason for this, but there is definitely excellent quality food about if you know where to look. For those Statesiders who eat both healthily
and well, I salute you!

We ended the day with a picnic in the Sonoma town square while watching dusk approach and washed down our meal with this most amazing bottle of pear cider. This pear cider was BRILLIANT. Since tasting it, we have tried a couple of other brands in the US and London, but nothing compares to that bottle (and alas I can't remember the brand).

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Monterey to San Francisco

Before I forget, something else I didn't mention was that Monterey is home to a large sea lion population. The previous night when we were heading down to the pier, we heard loud 'arf arf arf' noises literally a dozen streets away from the ocean front - amazing how far sound can travel (either that or they are loud noisy buggers...probably both actually)

Tuesday the 9th of December.


We checked out of our motel and drove down to Cannery Row to see what it was all about.
Cannery Row was named due to containing many sardine canning factories, although these are no longer in operation (they closed in the mid 50's).

Cannery Row



Arguably one of the greatest American writers, John Steinbeck hailed from nearby Salinas and set two of his novels on Cannery Row (Cannery Row and Sweet Thursday). Simply walking along the row, you soak up the history and begin to see what inspired him.

John Steinbeck banner - he is obviously very well regarded in these parts!


I think it probably was a little rougher during the 30's and 40's though as Cannery now consists of arty type stores, cafes, gift shops and upmarket hotels. The gift shops here are a cut above the 'same old' stores we have seen previously on our journey (consequently a little more expensive too). It was here that we finally indulged ourselves in a caramel apple covered in walnuts - delicious! I also got the chocolate covered gummi bears here too (another yummy treat I sent back to the folks in NZ). We also got some American fudge which was okay but I prefer the 'hard stuff' Russian fudge rather than the soft 'cookie dough' type.


One of the highlights of this area was visiting a huge two story antique store inside one of the old canning warehouses called the
Cannery Row Antique Mall. It consisted of many, many different dealers but with one main place where you make purchases (a single checkout makes it a lot easier). There were so many goodies here; plates with pictures of classic cars (plates were made in the 80's), old toys (some still boxed), antique furniture, hand made teddy bears, ornaments, dolls, classic board games, videos, old post cards (from all over the world - even NZ) and some brilliant pictures from fruit crates ranging from the 30's to 70's. All in all, it was brilliant and we spent nearly two hours looking around. To anyone who is a retro fiend...Lizzy, Sarah and Sonia - you know you would love it here!

Cute house opposite the Cannery Row Antique Mall


From the antique store we moved back a few streets and I located a second hand bookstore where I picked up two of the Bernice Summerfield New Adventures...this only leaves me with five to go before I have the whole set. Hooray!


All of the streets near Cannery Row have names like Lighthouse Ave, Foam Street, Wave Street etc which really captures the essence of Monterey.

We left the Cannery Row area and were in two minds whether to check out Pacific Grove or head straight for San Francisco. We decided to check out PG (as it is known to the locals) as we had heard some amazing things about Monarch Butterflies and a little sanctuary they have there. Pacific Grove is also very close to somewhere called Pebble Beach. Seems they hold a golf tournament there or something.

We got to the butterfly sanctuary and at first glance it didn't look like much...but after a looking through a telescope trained on the leaves of some of the tall trees we saw a few
Monarch butterflies surrounded by leaves. It was then that I realised that the leaves were also butterflies and one of the docents (volunteer guide) said that they had counted over a 1000 of them the previous day. Apparently they can be up to 11,000 Monarch's in the sanctuary at one time. It was a worthwhile experience.

We saw wild deer in the sanctuary!


I know it's not a Monarch...but it was a good photo


See all the orange things - they're Monarch butterflies!

Click on the photo to see it more clearly

Another pic, zoom in to see better


After the breath taking wonder of seeing hundreds if not thousands of Monarch's in flight, we decided to migrate ourselves north. Next stop San Fran!

It was a mostly uneventful journey, although we did spot a VW ute/pick-up of a type we hadn't ever seen before, so that was cool.

A VW ute/pick-up


Finally we arrived in SF and as we were a little early, thought we could fill in a bit of time by going over the Golden Gate bridge. It was night time and hard to take a decent photo but I did get one which I have tweaked to make it a bit easier to see.

Golden Gate bridge at night


After our drive across and back (dutifully paying the $5 toll on the way back) we headed for Barry's place which was just off Haight Ashbury and where we were staying for the next six nights. We first met Barry at Sarah & Dan's wedding in December 2007 and she's awesome! A lovely person and most gracious host. Sha and I are deeply indebted to her for putting us up and all her helpful tips as to what is worth doing and seeing in San Fran. Thanks Barry!

Tomorrow - we make it Northwards to Sonoma, Wine Country!

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Morro Bay to Monterey

After leaving Morro Bay, we headed up the coastal route to Monterey. On the way we drove through some heavily wooded areas (loosing sight of the Pacific Ocean altogether).

Ocean and forest, a perfect combination


We stopped at the tourist entrance (gift shop/tourist centre) to Hearst Castle where we took a look around.

Hearst Castle - a distant view


We didn't actually take the Hearst Castle tour as it was a little late in the day. I wasn't aware that
William Randolph Hearst was the inspiration for Orson Welles' Citizen Kane but there you have it. Maybe I should watch the film one day as I understand it is very good (understatement of 2009 I hear you cry?) Hearst Castle is also where I purchased some salt water taffy to send back to the folks in NZ. Hope they enjoyed it (and it doesn't pull out too many fillings!)

After leaving the Hearst Castle gift shop, we kept heading north and stopped at this lovely spot for an ice cream.

A nice little stop


That IS a big anchor


Beautiful view of the Pacific Ocean


We finally arrived in Monterey, checked into our motel and headed out for dinner. As we made our way down to the pier we came across an ice skating rink in full swing.

Ice skating in Monterey


We also encountered a photography class trying to get the 'perfect shot'.

Photography students


Finally on the pier we saw this statue.

A fishy tale


It was a very difficult decision as where to eat. As Monterey is well known for brilliant seafood, we went for what is the most recommended restaurant on the pier -
Old Fisherman's Grotto. Check the link out! We were greeted at the door by the owner who offered us free clam chowder, suitably tempted we entered. Food wise, we had an amazing entrée of artichoke hearts and we shared our main meal of a crab and a brilliant glazed walnut salad with balsamic dressing. Both Sha and I were incredibly impressed with the food, the prices were very reasonable and the service was superb too. When we had finished our meal, Sha received a red rose and I the bill.

Me eager to begin the crab feast


Sha wearing her bib


A strange sign in the room...poor baby


After dinner we headed back to the motel and were looking forward to tomorrow's visit to Cannery Row to see what had inspired John Steinbeck all those years ago.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Morro Bay

8th of December...yes, I am behind with the blog by, uhhh, a little bit. I am doing my best to get it up to date because as you may know, we are actually in London at the moment.

Anyway, on with the show!

Morro Bay is a beautiful coastal fishing town and very peaceful. It's quite small and it was here we looked into posting gifts back to NZ. We trundled down to our first post office and discovered how much it costs and how to go about sending things back. We also discovered that there is a flat rate package which allows you to send whatever you want at a flat price (AS LONG AS IT FITS IN THE BOX). In the end we decided that we would send things from San Fran as it would likely be easier for us.

After the Post Office, we went down the main streets and checked out a few gift stores and a couple of thrift shops. We purchased a bottle opener from a thrift shop as we had a couple of bottles of wine with corks and everywhere we stayed seemed to lack an opener. Sha has now made this bottle opener an integral part of our travel kit!

After the (very small) 'main drag', we headed down to the
Embarcadero (waterfront wharf/pier) and checked out many of the gift shops and grabbed a bite for lunch. A point of interest on the waterfront is Morro Rock (known by locals simply as 'The Rock') which juts out from the bay. It is very impressive as the photos below show.

Our first view of 'The Rock'


A rather more picturesque view


Sha and a wooden dolphin


View down the
Embarcadero


On our travels we encountered many gift shops of varying quality. The most common was easily replicated ad nauseum, selling the same old stuff, all made in China. Less common were the stores selling unique and local goods or at the very least, stuff made in the US. Our preference was to buy US made goods.

Lunch was clam chowder and a mix of fried seafood (once again, sounds bad but was fresh and tasty). The clam chowder was ace!

Anti drink driving poster at the restaurant we had lunch at

I wonder if a campaign like this would work in NZ?

Lunch

Yes, Sha does have a piña colada! I went with the Red Tail Ale

The last place we checked out was The Shell Shop, which was an amazing shop full to the brim with shells of all sizes, shapes and price. While predominantly American shells, there were also quite a few from overseas. This shop is a haven for collectors and arts and craft type people.

After leaving Morro Bay, we headed
up the coast to Monterey.